Wild Bay Area Tinola with Fennel and Kombu

Wild Bay Area tinola is tinolang tahong, the Filipino mussel soup simmered in ginger broth, made with a few wild flavors from the Bay. Toasted fennel seed and fennel fronds add a soft sweetness, and a kombu broth adds ocean depth. It takes about 35 minutes and serves two over steamed rice.

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My lola made chicken tinola most weeks. But when mussels went on sale, she made tinolang tahong, and we all knew it was a good week. The mussels release a briny liquor into the ginger broth that makes it taste deeper than any chicken version.

This October I cooked her recipe on stage at Filipino Island Fest in Alameda and gave it a Bay Area twist. My mom passed wild fennel through the crowd so everyone could smell it, and people kept asking for the recipe, so here it is.

What makes this tinola taste like the Bay Area?

Wild fennel grows on hillsides all over the Bay, and its seeds and fronds pair beautifully with ginger. Kelp grows right off our coast too, so I swapped plain water for a kombu broth. You can find both at the grocery store if you’re not foraging. If you want the classic version, my original tinolang tahong recipe uses plain water and no fennel.

How do you forage these ingredients safely?

• Wild fennel: It’s invasive in California, so harvesting it helps. Pick away from roadsides and anywhere that might be sprayed.
• Kelp: You don’t need a fishing license to harvest seaweed in California, but there’s a daily limit of 10 pounds wet weight, and harvesting isn’t allowed in state marine reserves. Leave sea palm, eelgrass, and surfgrass alone, since they’re protected. The CDFW recreational kelp rules have the details.
• Wild mussels: California quarantines sport-harvested mussels every year from May 1 through at least October 31, because they can carry natural toxins that cooking won’t destroy. Some Bay Area counties also have extra advisories, so check the CDPH shellfish advisories or call 800-553-4133 before you harvest. Store-bought mussels from approved sources are tested regularly and safe year-round.

FAQ

Can I make this without kombu or fennel?
Yes. Use plain water and skip the fennel seed for the classic version.

What can I use instead of chili leaves?
Malunggay or baby spinach both work. Add them at the very end so they stay bright.

What if some mussels don’t open?
Throw out any mussels that stay closed after 6 minutes of cooking.

And as always, kain na!